La Nuit Blanche

Rather than compose a single report on his recent Sabbatical months, Roger Clarke is writing a series of articles describing some of the Christian communities with whom he made contact. This month he writes about an initiative in the centre of Paris.

The area of Paris just to the north of the Seine has undergone tremendous changes in the last thirty years. Gone are "Les Halles" the great covered markets, (rather like the old Covent Garden in London), there is now a vibrant commercial and leisure area, with all the possibilities and problems that entails. In this area is the Quartier Beauborg, full of trendy Cafés, avant-garde galleries, "art" cinemas, and street entertainment – it is an area that is vibrant and is alive at all hours of day and night. Right at the heart is the controversial Pompidou Centre, a gallery of modern art, equally known for its radical architecture, which is either loved or hated.

Once or twice a year the community of Beauborg keeps "La Nuit Blanche" - "The White Night", when nothing closes, and the Cafés, Galleries and Cinemas stay open all night – people in their thousands throng the streets – a noisy, bustling throng, enjoying street theatre, impromptu concerts and much more.

The Churches play their part too – especially the Parish of St Merry, a few hundred yards down from the Pompidou Centre. St Merry has over the last twenty years become a radical Christian community reaching out to the thousands who pass its lovely fourteenth century church. On La Nuit Blanche they stay open as well – to remain the only locked, darkened building would be counter-productive. Outside there is a continuous "son et lumière" display, inside there is a programme of live music, drama, art installations, and opportunities to talk and share as well, together with refreshment and space for the weary to sit, or even sleep.

And people come in – in October 2005 it was estimated that (amazingly) 9000 people came through the doors between 7.00pm and 7.00am !. Some just wander in and out, others stay to watch the drama, listen to the music, or "chill out". Some find their way into the Chancel to sit quietly before the Blessed Sacrament, perhaps praying for the first time in years, and some, at least, seek out the priests and the parish pastoral team.

There is no direct evangelism as such during the time the church is open – the emphasis is on hospitality and welcome. Visitors are encouraged to write down their comments and often they remark how their attitude to "church" has changed, from something thought to be dull, dead, and life-denying to something which is life-affirming. This is pre-evangelism, creating a climate for the Gospel to be heard in a way in could not have been heard before, and there are those now in local congregations because of the hospitality of La Nuit Blanche..

Perhaps in this country the Church in the city has something to learn, though the concept of the "White Night" would not translate directly into our experience. There are already "fresh expressions of church", sometimes centred on ancient buildings, and trying to respond to "the rhythm of the city" – a phrase from the St Merry project. In London, the radical congregation at St James' Piccadilly has long practised a ministry of open doors and hospitality at all hours, and interesting work is beginning in Brighton's club-land, and elsewhere.

All of this is very exciting, 'though there is one aspect that worries me. Apparently a number of those who came into St Merry, had thought that the church was disused, when in fact it is used for worship day by day. The reason for this is that the building is, to be honest, a bit "shabby". As I wandered round the aisles of this huge Gothic building in the interval during a concert one Sunday afternoon, I had to acknowledge that it was not well-kept. Not only were some of the fittings in dire need of refurbishment and conservation (for which French churches look to the State) but the side chapels were a dumping ground for clutter. By the main door was the brazier used for the "New Fire" at the Easter Vigil, still with the ashes in it! All in all, I had the sense that the lively community of St Merry simply inhabited their building and hadn't as yet developed a relationship with it, nor could they as yet see it as a holy place, a resource for their mission, rather than just a building to do things in. This may be a little unfair, but it rather sad – there is a holy people here, amongst whom the Lord is present, but I wonder if they have lost the sense of a holy place, which can of itself be a place of God, where prayer has been valid.

This community of faith is remarkable – if they began to use their building as a resource in itself, who knows how much more their witness and ministry could be strengthened ?

Roger Clarke

December 2006