Ministry in the “Yellow Triangle”

In a further reflection on his Sabbatical last year, Roger Clarke describes the ministry of a Parish Church in an unusual part of south-eastern Paris.

The 13^th "Arrondissement" (or District) of Paris stretches away to the south-east of the city centre towards the Inner Ring Road ("La Périphrique") and the suburbs. It is not an area that the tourist usually visits, not because it is particularly dangerous but because it lacks the usual attractions. 150 years ago, the novelist Victor Hugo described it as "ugly and melancholy". To some degree this has changed, not least because of new Canary Wharf style facilities close to the Seine, but the area is still somewhat unprepossessing. In the south-western corner the Parisian authorities demolished much of the artisan housing in the 1960s and 70s, replacing it with tall apartment blocks, which can be seen from all over Paris, which is still a mainly "low-rise" city.

This is now the Paris "Chinatown", since it is where refugees from the former French Indo-China (especially Vietnam), and immigrants from China itself, began to settle in the 1970s. The area bounded on three sides by the Avenues de Choisy and Ivry and the Boulevard Massena is now full of excellent (and cheap) restaurants, Chinese and Vietnamese food stores, and street markets - it is known as "the Yellow Triangle" - a name perhaps a little "un-PC" these days, but enthusiastically adopted by the locals.

In the midst of this stands the Church of St Hippolyte. It is almost the only building remaining from the time before the town planners arrived. It is now surrounded and overshadowed by the tallest apartment blocks - as the Parish Logo (at the top of this page) suggests. The Church is a fairly ordinary piece of early twentieth century architecture, but nicely re-ordered inside, and stands open every day until quite late at night, and is kept warm and light. There is a daily Mass, and the parish community gathers on Sundays for a lively and multi-cultural Liturgy - the congregation of St Hippolyte is truly a "rainbow" people of many cultures and colours, Asian, Caribbean, African and European - a living testimony to the Christ in whom all barriers are broken down. Whilst the Mass in French in offered in Church, the Chinese community have a Mass in Chinese in a chapel in the next-door Church Centre (dedicated to "Notre Dame de Chine" - Our Lady of China).

The "Yellow Triangle" continues to be an area to which immigrants, refugees and asylum seekers gravitate, and the church tries to offer welcome and support in its pastoral ministry. Amongst those who find their way to the church are increasingly a group known as the "sans-papiers" - literally "those without papers" - often economic or political refugees from Africa or the Caribbean, seeking asylum in France but often living on the edges of society , with little or no legal protection, and subject to extremely restrictive new laws. The congregation of St Hippolyte have long played a part in assisting immigrants and refugees to find accommodation and medical care, and is increasingly working with other voluntary bodies to act as an advocate for those who have little or no voice.

To this end the Church has set up a number of consultations about the needs of these marginal people, not another series of meetings attended by those working with these "sans papiers", but attempts to welcome the people themselves, and to listen to the disturbing stories they tell. It is clear that for many of those who have attended it is the first time they have been listened to, taken seriously, and allowed to take some part in the direction of their own lives. When you have little power and are on the margins you can feel even more powerless by being "done to" even by those who mean well, but have not taken time to listen and be alongside you. The people of St Hippolyte are genuinely trying to be a parish church, identified with their community, one with them and alongside them. This is truly an Incarnational ministry, imaging the Christ who emptied himself and became one with us.

Such a ministry bears fruit for the Gospel. Last year there were a number of adult baptisms and confirmations and some moving testimonies as to how in this unprepossessing place people have found Christ. Lamartine is an example - fleeing from the violence of his native Haiti, he arrived in Paris in October 2004, sleeping on people's floors by night, and walking the streets by day, aimless, isolated and depressed. One Sunday morning he heard the bells of St Hippolyte, and wandered in to sit at the back during the Mass - he was welcomed, and accepted at once as part of the community of faith. Members of the congregation found him accommodation and helped him find some measure of stability in his life. In their ministry and their love he found Christ, and at the Maundy Thursday Liturgy last year made his first Communion. He wrote afterwards in the Parish Bulletin: "It was the most beautiful day of my life. I cannot see how I could be happier." Lamartine says that his future is still uncertain, but he has found the presence and love of a faithful God, and knows that underneath are the everlasting arms. All this is because a community of ordinary Christians began to live the Gospel "on their patch", and extend Christ's radical welcome to all.

(St Hippolyte has a very good Web-Site: www.saint-hippolyte.net which describes their ministry and their community. It is, of course in French !)

Roger Clarke

March 2007